Retro-Chic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Add some vintage charm to your table with this Retro-Chic table runner … a modern twist to the classic granny square!

Retro-Chic Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Here is what you will need:

• 2 colors sport weight cotton yarn, 136 yd/50g each color (I used Knit Picks Comfy Sport in the Parchment and Peony colorways)
• E hook
• scissors and yarn needle

Resources and tutorials you may find helpful in following this crochet pattern: Crochet Abbreviations, U.S. to U.K. Crochet Conversion Chart, How to Make a Magic Ring {photo & video tutorial}.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry library.

Finished runner measures approximately 24 in. × 16 in.

Retro-Chic Granny Squares

Make 3 of each color (or as many as desired to for a custom size)

Make a magic ring (as an alternative to the magic ring, you can ch 4 and join with a slip stitch in furthest chain from hook to form a ring).

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 2 dc in ring, ch 3, * 3 dc in ring, ch 3, repeat from * twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 12 dc.

Round 2: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, *work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, rep from * twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 24 dc.

Round 3: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 3 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, *work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 3 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, rep from * twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 36 dc.

Round 4: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, work 1 dc between the posts of the first 2 dc below, ch 1, work 1 dc between the posts of the last 2 dc below, ch 1, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, *work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, work 1 dc between the posts of the first 2 dc below, ch 1, work 1 dc between the posts of the last 2 dc below, ch 1, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, rep from * twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 40 dc.

Round 5: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, *work 1 dc in next ch-1sp, ch 1,** rep from * to ** twice more, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, ***work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, work from * to ** three times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, rep from *** twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 44 dc.

Round 6: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, *work 1 dc in next ch-1sp, ch 1,** rep from * to ** three more times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, ***work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, work from * to ** four times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, rep from *** twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 48 dc.

Round 7: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, *work 1 dc in next ch-1sp, ch 1,** rep from * to ** four more times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, ***work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, work from * to ** five times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, rep from *** twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 52 dc.

Round 8: Sl st in next 2 sts, work 1 sc in corner ch-sp and ch 2 (counts as dc here and throughout), work [2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in same corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, *work 1 dc in next ch-1sp, ch 1,** rep from * to ** five more times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, ***work [3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch 2, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 1, work from * to ** six times, work 1 dc in next ch-2sp, ch 2, rep from *** twice more, join in top of beginning ch — 56 dc.

Round 9: Ch 1 (does not count as st here and throughout), *work 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 sc in next corner ch-sp, 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, 3 sc in next ch-2sp, 1 sc  in each dc and ch-1sp across to next ch-2sp, 3 sc in next ch-2sp, rep from * three more times, join in top of first st — 120 sc.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

Wedge Diagram of Square

Click here to reference Crochet Stitch Chart Symbols.

Joining Your Squares

You can join your squares together by any method you prefer. I chose to slip stitch the pieces together by holding 2 squares together with right sides facing and slip stitching them together through top loops only. See my post Joining Crochet Squares for a step-by-step tutorial of this method along with some photos to guide you through. Continue joining squares so that your runner is 2 squares high by 3 squares across and your colors are staggered across the row, or in another configuration if you prefer.

Edging

Round 1: With right side facing, join CA in the back loop only of any stitch, ch 1, work 1 sc in the back loop only of each stitch around, working 3 sc in each corner space, join and fasten off.

Round 2: Join CB in the back loop of any st, ch 3, work 1 dc in the back loop only of each st around, working 3 cc in each corner space, join and fasten off.

Round 3: Join CA in the back loop only of any stitch, ch 1, work 1 sc in the back loop only of each stitch around, working 3 sc in each corner space, join and fasten off.

Weave in ends and block if desired. -> How To Block Your Finished Projects.